Shooting Portraits: Jan. 15th (Week 2)

Different lenses create different kinds of portraits. Some say the 105mm is the perfect portrait lens. Others say 50mm. It also depends on how far you are standing from your subject. A longer lens won't make the nose look too big and it allows you to get a close crop without standing very close to your subject (which can make people feel uncomfortable). It's said that people's features look more flattering when the photographer is not so close (perhaps best to be 15 feet away). Also, longer lenses can help create a blurrier background.
More info on Portrait lenses HERE.


In class, try a series a portraits using the following guidelines:

1. Backlit. Place your subject with the window behind them. Use Manual Setting. Adjust your ISO, aperture and shutter speed so that the window gets blown out and the background almost looks white. Try shooting with a low number F-stop so the background is very blurry. If you have a zoom lens, try standing close and then far away (but both times cropping from the shoulders up. Is one image more flattering than the other?


2. Side Lit. Position your subject so that a window is lighting them from the side. Shoot one portrait with a reflector and one without. Notice how a reflector fills in the shadows on the dark side of the face.


3. Against a wall, with and without flash. Position your subject about a step away from the wall. Shoot one portrait horizontally with the flash up and one portrait vertically using your flash. Notice how the shadow behind the subject changes.
* Full frontal flash can be used effectively and stylistically. Take for example the work of Martin Parr, who often shoot s with a ring flash.




If you have a flash that goes on your hotshoe, try pointing it up and bouncing it off a white ceiling, into a white reflector, off a white wall to the side and directly on the subject. Each way you point the flash will create a different light on the face.

Outside:

1. Place your subject in the shade. On manual, adjust your camera settings so that the background is properly exposed. Look at your light meter if you're not sure where to start. Then pop your flash up to fill in your subject. Make sure your flash is on TTL (an auto setting).


2. Shoot your subject in just natural light (no flash) in broad daylight. If you have a zoom lens, try standing close and then far away (but both times cropping from the shoulders up. Is one image more flattering than the other? How does the background change? You can shoot on Manual (M), Shutter priority (S), Program (P) or Aperture Priority (A).

3. Shoot your subject in full sun but add flash. If it's a bright sunny day, try shooting them with the sun acting as a hair light. (You may have to crouch down low if sun is overhead)


More advanced Options:

If you have a flash for your hotshoe, you can buy a cord to be able to hold it off camera. Side lighting for portraits often makes them look more "professional". Some cameras do this wirelessly as well. It's called "Commander Mode". You can also diffuse your flash with an umbrella or a Gary Fong.

Retouching Portraits in Photoshop:

Basic retouching includes redness reduction, blemish removal, skin softening, slimming, etc. We will go over these techniques in class and there is a handout below.